In the wake of this year’s Bastille Day,
six of us gathered on a wintry night in a little dining room, in the smallest
house in the city to taste French Champagne.
Taste, not just drink.
And thus the Beirut Champagne Club was
born. The name is a nod to our first meeting place. It’s a nickname the locals
gave the south-west corner of the city a while ago.
Our hostess Anne-Marie did us proud. Not
only selecting 5 different and palate challenging bottles but serving a 4
course French-inspired dinner including her own Gougeres (recipe below). Gougeres
are a cheese-flavoured puff that go so well with Champagne.
The five Champagnes we tasted where all
accessible and pretty much entry level wines.
There was only one Grand Marque – the
Laurent Perrier NV, which we started with, chosen deliberately by Anne-Marie to
awaken the mouth and set a benchmark for comparisons.
My personal favourites were No.s 3 & 5.
What amazed some of us was how much the
Champagnes changed, as they grew warmer in the glass or bottle. Some more than
others.
We compared (to say judge would imply too
much knowledge) each Champagne on colour (out of 3), nose (out of 7) and
palette (out of 10).
This is what we drank, some of our thoughts
and my votes in parentheses:
1. Laurent Perrier Brut LP NV $69.99 @Champagne
Gallery.
A typical tasting French Champagne that
grew duller or flatter but also sweeter as it grew warmer. Suit newcomers to
real Champagne drinking (2/5/6).
2. Le Mesnil 2004 Blanc De Blancs $79.99 @
Edinburgh Cellars.
This is a grower’s wine that had a slight
sourness to the back palate that became more interesting the longer it was in
the glass. From the same village as Krug Le Mesnil. (2.5/6/7).
3. Chartogne-Taillet 2004 Brut $85 @
Champagne Gallery.
The 60 per cent Pinot Noir meant it tasted
yeastier, it smelled like bread dough, also had a taste of wood. More golden in
colour. Expect to taste pears, hazelnuts, almonds and spices. This wine finishes on the
tongue really well. (2.5/7/8).
4. Christophe LeFevre Cuvee Prestige $58.99
@ Champagne Gallery.
A toasty, biscuit wine and a bit drier – 80
per cent of this wine comes from “outstanding” (according to Champagne Gallery)
2008 vintage, the rest from 2007. This is an organic wine grower. (3/6/7).
5. Canard-Duchene Cuvee Leonie $68 @ Edinburgh Cellars.
A blend of 50 per cent Pinot
Noir, 25 per cent Pinot Meunier and 25 per cent Chardonnay; a great colour and
opens up as it warms in the glass. It’s described as an aperitif and
excellent accompaniment to food – it also worked well with
cheese and our dessert of quince tart. (2.5/7/8)